This page will be continuously updated until the engine rebuild is completed...

This page is dedicated to my '92 Dodge Dakota. It currently has about 177,000 miles on it. I forgot to take some "before" pictures before I starting taking the engine apart, so I don't have any pics of the whole truck yet. Before I start talking about the engine rebuild, I'd like to show you my overhead console modification. I've never seen this before on any other Dakota ANYWHERE.

I got the overhead console from a '91 Dodge Caravan, along with the motors and hardware for the Caravan's rear vent window. The curve of the headliner and the console match perfectly. I figured out what all the wiring is supposed to be for the lights and I also have power to the computer. I connected a temp sensor in the front of my truck and ran wires to the computer for the outside temperature. I couldn't get the compass to work and the Dakota doesn't have a body control module like the caravan does, so I was unable to get the other options in the computer to work. I also mounted and hooked up the motors to my extended cab windows and ran wires to the console. I installed three switches directly behind the vent switches that trigger relays to turn on my: top mounted off-road lights, two lights mounted in back for backing up and hooking up trailers at night, and then the lights that I have mounted under the dash and under the seat for night-time use (they add character to the interior).

This is the stereo that I installed. It consists of: Sony CDX-C660 CD Player, MTX RTX01A Crossover, Orion Cobalt 260, Orion 15" DVC subwoofer, and the typical miscellaneous distribution blocks, wires, fuses, etc. I wanted the system behind the driver's seat so that people can still get in on the passenger side. The Dakota's rear seat is split 40/60, but the compartments underneath are split 50/50. That means, if you want to access the jack on the passenger side, you actually have to lift up BOTH seats. I swapped the two seats around so that the longer half was on the passenger side and measured the remaining space without the short seat. That's how I made the subwoofer enclosure fit so well.

Here are some pics of the body. Notice the paint flaking from the roof. I have four lights mounted on the Lund Racer-Back, completely wired and functional from a switch in the overhead console. I also have a brush guard on the front, which is bolted to the bumper with 2 bolts and to the front frame with 6 bolts. It is VERY strong, but it's rusting, and I broke a weld on it when I went off the road and nailed a set of railroad tracks...(long story)  Needless to say, I removed it. I also just removed the Mopar Step Bars. The driver's side bar is completely rotted out on the bottom to the point that it collapsed when I stepped on it the night I took it off. The other bar is fine! A friend and I figured it was due to our Wisconsin winter salt that is dumped on the roads constantly. He has the same situation with his Ford step bars on his F-250 Turbo Diesel. Notice the typical Dodge paint flaking!?!

Here are some pictures as I was I was beginning to disconnect what is needed to remove the engine. I wish I would have gotten a shot of the engine prior to this for a "before" picture, but I wasn't thinking about it.

Here is the engine after It is all stripped down enough to hook up the chain to pull it out.

I took these pictures as I was taking the engine out and then also after I got it out.

This is the empty engine compartment.

Maybe this is why she's been stalling occasionally and starting hard. That's some MAJOR corrosion.

This is right after mounting the engine on the engine stand.

Just took off the accessory bracket. It's the bracket that the alternator, idler pulley, and A/C compressor mounts to.

Water Pump and harmonic balancer (damper) removed.

Timing chain cover removed.

Here are some pics after I took off the intake manifold and the valve covers. Looks like the left side was getting more oil flow than the right side. The left side has oil sitting on top of the rockers and they are relatively clean. The right side is dry and there are deposits baked on.

Here is the block with the heads and cam removed. Pistons are cleaner than I thought they were going to be.

Here is the bottom side of the heads. They are pretty clean too.

Pictures of the pistons and crank coming out.

Here is the 5 and 7 cylinders to show the shape that all the cylinders are in.

These are all the parts left over after the disassembly.

December, 2002 - I found out that my heads are cracked. Shortly after we found some cracks in the block as well. So now I need to find another option.

February 4, 2003 - I am now the proud owner of a brand new Chrysler 318 Long Block. Now I just need to swap my parts over and get it completely assembled. Let the parts ordering begin!!

Ok, I finally got all the parts I needed, so here's the engine assembly story.

This is basically how I got the long block. I already installed my Mopar Performance R/T Camshaft and Roller Lifters. The stock rocker arms and push rods are removed. And as you can see I installed the timing cover, water pump, and painted them black to match the rest of the engine.

Here is the Mopar Performance Roller Rocker Kit installation. You need to install the studs into the heads first and then mount and adjust the rocker arms with the new pushrods. These pictures show the stock springs as well, I was waiting for right retainers to put my new springs in (the ones recommended with the cam). I did remove the rocker arms and installed the new springs and retainers.

This was the biggest pain in the rear so far. I'm installing a Mopar Performance M-1 2bbl Intake Manifold and requires me to swap all the sensors over from the old manifold as well as this heater hose inlet. Luckily, the larger by-pass inlet was included in the installation kit so I didn't need to swap that over. I had to use a torch to heat the manifold attempting to expand it so I could remove the inlet. After about 45-60 minutes, I got the inlet out along with the aluminum threads from the manifold. The old manifold may be salvageable, but I won't worry about that unless I actually need it for something.

And there you have it, the finished product. All ready to get mounted in the Dakota.

March 1, 2003 - I started around 9:00AM and spent all day getting the engine back in. Working outside in a semi-heated pole building until 2:00AM is not recommended in Wisconsin Winter. Almost ready to start up.

March 2, 2003 - The first thing I did was add coolant. As soon as I could see coolant approach the top of the radiator, it started leaking out near the water pump. I tracked it down to leaking from the thermostat gasket. I didn't really like how the new housing fit with the stock hose anyways, so installed the stock housing and a new gasket, this time with a little Mopar RTV. Filled with coolant, filled with oil, connected battery. Started right up. I had to wait a few minutes for the lifters to pump up and quiet down. I let it warm up and checked for leaks, everything checks ok. To my surprise there wasn't anything that I forgot or left disconnected. I took it out for it's first test drive. As the engine got real hot I noticed a coolant smell, then the windows started to fog up a little, then I had coolant dripping out of my dash...uh oh...looks like I must have cracked/broke the heater core when I was forcing the heater hoses off or on. This sucks big time.

March 8, 2003 - Bypassed the heater core temporarily so I can at least drive the truck without getting coolant all over my carpet. Drove the truck to work so I could work on it in a warm shop.

This shows you what the Dakota looks like with the dash all apart. That's the HVAC Module. In the last picture you can see where the heater core pipes stick out toward the bottom of the picture. The cover of the module had to be removed, then I cleaned the coolant out and replaced the heater core. The whole job wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

While I had it in a warm shop I took the time to installed my shiny new F&B 50mmx2 Billet Aluminum Throttle Body that I bought from Sam at SoCalDakota.com. The pictures show the old Throttle Body and then the new one. Notice my custom "S-Bolt" that I made for my air hat.

At the same time I also installed a set of injectors that I got from a Ford Mustang. The injectors are a 19 lb injector just like the dodge ones, but they have a little higher flow rate. The size and connector is exactly the same.

March 11, 2003 - Tonight I installed the MSD 6A Ignition Controller and MSD Blaster SS Coil. Once I started the engine to make sure it was working ok, I powered everything down and finally installed the Mopar Performance Computer. I've been waiting to install the computer until I had all of my planned engine mods done. Last night I needed to fill up with gas so I went ahead and got Premium (92 octane) to prepare for the computer installation. I never thought I was going to modify the truck in a way that I HAD to run different gas. I took it for a drive when everything was installed and I could feel a pretty big increase. I was really surprised at the amount of power that I gained from just doing those two things.

Here is a list of most of the parts that I have purchased so far. This list will be getting longer as I work on the engine. Not everything is in this list, I have numerous receipts from visits to the local Dodge Dealer and Auto Parts Stores.

Check back for updates...

This page was last updated on 03/11/03 at 10:56 PM.